Thursday, February 12, 2015

Day 35 - Feb 12

I can get used to this rest day thing.  Two days of riding and then a rest day.  That is the way it should be.  But alas 'tis not to be.  Tomorrow starts a 5 day stint of riding.  And with true Tour d'Afrique style we start on day one of five with a 102 mile day.  In addition, we are in the heart of Ethiopia so that means hills and even mountains.  Perhaps that is why the errant rest day was thrown in.  If they hadn't thrown the rest day in, it would have been a 7 day stretch of riding that could have brought the strongest of us to our knees....  :)

But back to the rest day.  We did a boat tour out on to lake tanna to see an ancient monastery situated on an island.  It was built in the 14th century by monks who were being persecuted by an Islamic king.  All the Christian churches and holy sites were being burned to the ground.  So they sought refuge on this island in the middle of the lake.  The monastery is comprised of several buildings the most prominent is a church.  There are three entrances; one for monks and priests, another for the men and the third for the women.  It is a round building that has three circular parts.  The first is a walk that goes completely around and is used for prayer, the second the inner circle is used for receiving communion and the third the center is closed off and only monks and priests can go in.  There is supposedly a replica of the Ark of the Covenant held behind the closed doors.  The inner circle walls are covered with murals painted centuries ago depicting holy scenes.  Since the people of the day and even today cannot read, the murals serve the purpose of educating the people on the bible and it's stories.  It was very interesting but I believe that I am quite spoiled as it does not hold a candle to the temples of Egypt and Sudan.  

On the way back in the boat we got a real treat.  We saw a family of hippos surface along the banks of the lake.  We did not get to close as hippos are supposed to be one of the most dangerous animals.  If they feel threatened they will attack and capsize a boat.  And we were not in a very large boat.  Interesting fact ... The lake is the source waters of the Blue Nile.

One last story about the camp grounds/hotel.  The group has setup camp on the grounds of this hotel.  Some of us got rooms at the inn.  The room costs the equivalent of $20/night.  At that rate I do believe they are overcharging if you can believe that.  This morning one of the other riders was awaken by a noise. He looked down towards the foot of his bed and low and behold he had a bunk mate.  There at his feet half sitting up was a well fed and rather plump... RAT!  He ran out of the room and down to the front desk where the desk clerk grabbed a broom and mounted an assault.  After several minutes of screeching, screaming, banging and commotion; out came the clerk with a broken broom and a dead perpetrator.  The rider went back to the room and found the scene covered with blood from bed sheets to walls to floor to bathroom.  They said they would clean it up for him as there were no other rooms.  He chose a tent I believe....  Update: they did find him another room and graciously comped him one nights stay 400 Birr or $20.


This is the monastery church.


This is one of the monks from the monastary.


This is some of the paintings that adorn the walls.  The monks have painted these over the centuries and use only natural berries and plant materials to make the colors.  This method has the murals lasting for such long periods of time.


This was my room/bed.  As you can see it came complete with mosquito netting.  We are deep in the heart of mosquito country now.  That means we are in malaria land as well.

5 comments:

  1. We absolutely love your history of the region, it is truly eye opening.

    if I was your friend with the rat in the hotel, I would post a bad review of the hotel on trip advisor. Ha ha.

    So....your room needs some accessories and possibly an interior decorators touch, but I am sure it may be an upgrade from your tent and in light of the tent....it looks fabulous.

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  2. We absolutely love your history of the region, it is truly eye opening.

    if I was your friend with the rat in the hotel, I would post a bad review of the hotel on trip advisor. Ha ha.

    So....your room needs some accessories and possibly an interior decorators touch, but I am sure it may be an upgrade from your tent and in light of the tent....it looks fabulous.

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  3. Mike, Glad to read you are bearing up well. To make the trip a little more epic, maybe try a hit of malaria. Riding up mountains, on dirt road, in the heat with a headwind while being stoned suffering in a malarial delirium should,add,that little extra to the trip. Rule 5 would apply. BTW, I guess Ethtel is up and working today. Good job!

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  4. Mike, skip the malaria if you can. I too like the history of the region and the pictures are special. They add so much.

    The rider who got to sleep with the rat should have gone back to sleep. I mean there was only one and I doubt he could have gotten the rider through his hole in the wall for a late night snack.

    You know you might consider carrying a black jack for those kids you meet along the way. One of the stones or sticks could blind you are really hurt you if you were struck in the right place or the wrong place depending on your point of view.

    Well I hope you are rested for you 102 mile day. Have a good one and I look forward to reading tomorrows post.

    Ray Van Ostran

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  5. No pictures of the hippos?!?!?! I was looking forward to seeing them in comparison to your boat. 😊
    Glad you didn't have a roommate in your room. Awfully nice of the hotel to comp the room for your bike mate. Ah the joys of traveling in the third world - great memories & stories no one else will ever be able to tell.

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