Let me start with the conclusion with which I started the day... As I tried to rouse myself from bed, I was racked with a bit of pain from my fall yesterday. So the conclusion I came to and the effort that I am dedicating to for the balance of the trip is... I will no longer leave my bike while it is still moving. I have become aware that leaving the bike prior to it coming to a stop injects an unacceptable amount of pain into the body. I know that many of you that are reading this will think that should have been a universally accepted concept. But I somehow have not mastered that as yet. But hence forth I will endeavor to stay fully connected to my bike while in motion. :)
Now on to the day... We had a beautiful morning ride out San Jose Pinula through Guatamala City. It was even cold when we first set out. We traveled through fairly heavy traffic at times. It was supposed to be a short day of about 50 kilometers and all downhill into Antigua. But at the morning riders meeting they announced the day would be 74 kilometers and the additional route would be up over a volcano. No explanation for the additional miles but I surmise that the hotel not being ready until 2 pm factored in. We would have been there by 10 am with the regular route. But routing us up a goat trail of all loose gravel and rock with an additional 1,200 meters of climb would solve that. We didn't get in until 1:30 with the new route. So the problem was solved the TDA way... just send the riders out to the middle of nowhere on a road the locals wouldn't go on and climbs that would make a goat cry! That will take us a good deal of extra time and the hotel would be ready for us when we got in. :)
But the views from the ride were stunning. The climbs were grueling. On the ride I passed a lady who was carrying a large and apparently heavy bundle up the steep rock strewn road. As I passed her I noticed she was traveling this gruesome road barefoot. She was carrying her load up to the garbage dump that was about half way up.
Gives a whole different level of difficulty to taking the trash out.
After several hours of climbing we came to the top and entered a village. I got a coke and a local cake that was different but really good. The inhabitants of this mountain top village looked more Peruvian than we have seen. Their dress was different and more colorful as well. Then the downhill from the mountain top village was spectacular. I went flying down and twice came upon trucks that would have impeded my progress. So I blew right around them to their astonishment.
We rode into Antigua Guatamala. It is an absolutely charming city. It has a vibrancy to it. We were treated to a 5.7 level earthquake that made the ground shake so hard and rattle anything not tied down. But the piece de resistance was the La Quema del Diablo, the burning of the devil.
They were selling these piñatas everywhere but we could not figure out why until we got to Antigua. On December 7th at precisely 6 pm the custom is to burn the effigy of the devil to give the devil his due. We were treated to a spectacular and extremely dangerous show. In one of the plazas of Antigua that had the ceremony. There was a life size figure of el diablo.
They doused it in kerosene and flammable liquids and after a huge production set it on fire. There were thousands of people packed into the plaza. It was shoulder to shoulder people, young and old alike. People came very early to get a front row position. Little did they know the folly of their ways. As the diablo figure became engulfed in flames it began exploding! The figure was hollow and filled with firecrackers and bottle rocket type devices. It had all the markings of a really bad idea put into action. As the firecrackers and rockets went off they flew out into the crowd. As they went off and the diablo fire intensified, the crowd surged back and back. Remember it was already shoulder to shoulder with no room to move. We were about fifteen people/rows back and we could feel the intense heat from the flames of el diablo. With the crush backwards we ended up with a front row view with people virtually in our laps.
There was a platform for the local TV station that had three anchormen doing a live broadcast. As Diablo became engulfed he put off a thick black smoke that blew right over the three. They were coughing and brushing off ashes as they tried to maintain their composure. The spectacle was certainly something to see. It certainly would never happen in the USA or as the Canadian, Australian and German chimed in... no way could something like that ever be allowed there.Only in Central America... But WOW what a show.
Today we had a great ride, a strong climb, spectacular views, phenomenal descent, quaint village, beautiful city, a 5.7 earthquake and a burning of the devil. It can't get much better than that!!!
More photos of the great day:
A woman carrying her bundle up the mountain.
The road less traveled.
Impressive posts Mike!! Looks like a great trip
ReplyDeleteThanks Dave, it has been a great but grueling trip. The climbing on this trip has been out of this world!
DeleteI wish we had a burning party to give the devil his due here in the states. Sounds like a great way to release your inner anger. :) Pam
ReplyDelete